A follow-up attempt with bird number two did not achieve the same success as its predecessor, largely due to weather conditions. On this cooler, wetter day, the grill failed to reach the desired temperature, resulting in the chicken being removed at 148 degrees and not carrying over as much heat as intended during the resting period. Consequently, some portions of the chicken were undercooked and needed additional oven time. Despite being a minor issue, and coated with za’atar, the chicken remained flavorful. The $19 PoulTree offers a “roaster” option priced at $60, which includes a Lodge pan meant exclusively for this use, making it a practical choice considering how dirty the pans become during cooking.
The third attempt involved a chicken without overnight brining or air-drying, simply coated with amba and grilled, proving to be a successful weeknight dinner. While not a brined and marinated masterpiece, it was still very enjoyable.
In Oaxaca City, a chicken was purchased from Pollos José in the Merced market for the next experiment. Without wanting to carry a heavy skillet, only a rod and a device known as the “Double Coupe” from PoulTree were used. This setup utilizes a sheet pan over the rod. Although the sheet pan and potatoes did not contribute to crisping the chicken skin, the schmaltz-roasted potatoes compensated for this trade-off.
Cooking the chicken in an empty pan, as preferred by PoulTree, at too high a temperature can produce excessive smoke, requiring careful consideration. Hamid Salimian, a chef and regular review assistant, expressed concern over high-temperature cooking, recommending brining and air-drying the chicken before roasting it in a moderate 350-degree oven with some vegetables. He also suggested marinating the chicken with chilies for caramelization and flavor, cooking it breast side up.
Chef Chris Young from Modernist Cuisine and creator of the Combustion predictive thermometer also provided insight. He noted the advantage of the PoulTree in elevating the chicken away from the cooking surface, which he groups with rotisserie chickens as “levitating birds,” allowing even browning. He pointed out that placing vegetables in the pan might generate steam under the chicken, preventing that part of the skin from becoming as crisp as the rest.
Both chefs appeared intrigued by this new cooking approach, contemplating their techniques and the possible outcomes. The experimentation and consideration of different methods were engaging.
The PoulTree device encourages experimentation and conscious thought regarding the desired outcome. It promotes tinkering while offering quick and hassle-free cooking. For those interested in cooking chicken and culinary experimentation, it provides a fun and affordable way to experiment. Whether preparing a quick weeknight meal or investing more care, the results are satisfying. Adding vegetables to the pan, though it may create steam, is considered worthwhile.
“This will make things a bit steamier in the oven than with a bare pan, but at least the smoke alarm won’t be triggered,” Young notes. “Personally, I prefer using something like potatoes, which benefit from the drippings. For me, nothing surpasses potatoes soaking up the drippings from a levitating bird.”
